Closed-end Pen Mandrel

Closed-end Pen Mandrels
(Patent Pending)

Please read the Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges before ordering.

Closed-end Cocobolo Baron rollerball pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson

What is a closed ended pen? The picture above illustrates two Baron rollerball pens. The normal Baron has threads on the end of the pen to allow for the posting of the cap when the pen is being used. The exposed threads are necessary but not overly attractive. The closed end design allows for the removal of the threaded portion allowing for a more streamline and finished appearance. The pen's cap will not post (screw on) when the closed end design is utilized.

This mandrel makes the creation of a closed-end pen a very easy process. Unlike 'pin' chucks, this mandrel expands to securely support the tube. This mandrel requires the use of a three-jawed chuck, a Jacob's chuck (see below) or a collet chuck (we do not carry the collet chucks).

New!
An instructional video on how to make closed-end pens!

We sell expandable mandrels (shown below) to make various closed-end pens. We did not have a set of instructions to accompany these mandrels because everyone who made this type of pen had their own way of doing them - until now. We are please to introduce an instructional DVD produced and distributed by us and filmed and narrated by Mr. Ed Davidson who is, in our opinion, one of the best wood turners around. If you know anything about Ed you know he does not 'cut corners'. He is very precise and through.

This DVD covers the Baron/Sedona/Jr. Gentleman pens, the Jr. Gentleman II/Jr. Statesman II pens, the El Grande/Ligero pens, the El Presidente rollerball pen and the El Toro fountain pen. "Closed-End Pens Design & Turning Techniques" runs approximately two hours and will show you the turning techniques developed by Ed to complete the very unusual pens and pen stands shown on the cover. We also include a printed supplement that illustrates all of the diagrams and drawings shown in the DVD.

The cost of this DVD is $10.95. This production is available in VHS by special order for $10.95. Click here to order the VHS tape.

To order the "Closed-End Pens Design & Turning Techniques" DVD Click Here

Special Offer!

Purchase any 2 or more closed-end or
cap end closed-end mandrels
and
receive the Closed-End Pens DVD free!

You will not see this DVD offer in your order confirmation.
We will add the free DVD to your order when your order is processed.

Closed-end Mandrels

Baron or Sedona Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the Baron / Sedona closed-end mandrel Click Here . Cost is $19.99.

To order an extra bushing for the Baron / Sedona mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.29

Example of a cherry burl Baron cap end closed end pen made and photographed by Bob Altig
To make this pen you need a Baron cap end closed-end mandrel and a Baron closed-end mandrel

To order the Baron / Sedona cap end closed-end mandrel Click Here . Cost is $19.99.

To order an extra bushing for the Baron / Sedona cap end closed-end mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.29

El Grande and Churchill Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the El Grande / Churchill closed-end pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $24.70

To order the El Grande / Churchill cap end closed-end pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $26.40

To order an extra bushing for the El Grande / Churchill mandrel Click Here . Cost is $4.29

Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II and Jr. Statesman II Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $21.30

To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $4.29

To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro cap end closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $22.10

To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr. Retro cap end mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $4.29

El Presidente Rollerball and El Toro Fountain Pens

To order the El Toro closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $24.70

To order the El Toro cap end closed-end mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $26.40

To order an extra bushing for the El Toro mandrel Click Here.
Cost is $4.29

El Toro Closed-End Pen

Stabilized Madrone burl and Redwood burl with custom Ebonite couplers
Crafted by Dan Symonds, Houston, Texas

The entire pen weighs sixth-tenths of an ounce!

Our trademark CNC'd into the cap
(the pen's clip is on the opposite side of the logo)

To order the El Presidente closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $24.70

To order the El Toro cap end closed-end mandrel bushing Click Here .
Cost is $4.29

To order an extra bushing for the El Presidente mandrel Click Here.
Cost is $4.29

Craft Supplies USA Gentleman and Statesman Rollerball and Fountain Pens

To order the Craft Supplies USA Gentleman/Statesman closed-end pen mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $22.65

To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Gentleman/Statesman mandrel Click Here.
Cost is $4.29

Cigar Ballpoint Pens

To order the Cigar closed-end pen mandrel Click Here . Cost is $22.10

To order an extra bushing for the Cigar Closed- End mandrel Click Here. Cost is $4.29

Spalted maple closed-end Cigar pen
made and photographed by
Robert Hoenisch

Both closed-end cigar pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson

Want to learn how to make a closed-end Cigar pen? Click Here

7mm Cap End Closed-end pen mandrel
The bushing supplied will make a cap end closed-end 7mm European pen
To order the 7mm cap end closed-end mandrel Click Here .
Cost is $19.99.

To order an extra bushing for the 7mm Closed- End mandrel Click Here. Cost is $4.29

Drill Chuck

We now carry a heavy duty 1/2" drill chuck and arbor to hold the different
closed-end mandrels. This chuck can also be used for many other projects as well.

Click here to order the drill chuck with #2MT arbor. Price is $36.95

Click Here to order the drill chuck with a #1MT arbor. Price is $36.95

Using Arizona Silhouette's Mandrel To Make A
Closed-end Baron Pen

The following photo tutorial will describe how to prepare, turn and finish a closed-end Baron rollerball and/or fountain pen using this mandrel. In this example we'll be using Tulipwood.

The very cool thing about this mandrel is the expansion nut design. Its main feature is when the nut is tightened the opposite end of the mandrel expands in two directions keeping the blank perfectly centered relative to the mandrel. Alternatively, common pin-chuck designs lock the blank in place by rolling a loose pin up against one inside surface of the blank's brass tube, often causing an out-of-round turning, where one side of the finished blank's wall is thinner than the opposite side.

To make a closed end Baron pen, you'll need a blank that is at least 3" long. Drill a 25/64" hole down the center of the blank, exactly 2 7/8" deep.

And here's a special tip...the lower barrel hole is drilled deeper than normal so you've got clearance for the rollerball innards, resulting in the stock brass tube not bottoming out in the hole. In fact, the stock brass tube is almost an inch shorter than the hole's required depth. The problem is that when you go to press fit the ring and threaded end-piece into the finished lower barrel opening, the glue may give way and the brass will work it's way further down the hole, resulting in nothing to press fit into. My solution is to custom cut brass tubes to the exactly length of the hole's depth. That way the brass tube bottoms out at the bottom of the hole and will always be in the proper position for the press fit operation. Here's a link to longer 10mm brass tubes that can be purchased if you choose to adopt this alternative approach...gluing long tubes in the deep hole.

Make sure the mandrel is all the way in, with the bushing face flush up against the blank's end.

I'm using two box wrenches in this example to tighten the end-nut just enough so the blank is "locked" in position and will not spin around the mandrel shaft.

Next, mount the mandrel's exposed shaft in a drill or scroll chuck and tighten the chuck's jaws down snuggly against the mandrel shaft.

Here you can see that the mandrel has been mounted in a # 2 MT drill chuck so that about 1/4" of clearance between the end of the blank and the chuck is exposed...you'll need this 1/4" space to get your cutting tools in position for the finish cuts. Also note that the tailstock has been brought up to the opposite end of the blank, adding support for the piece while turning.

The blank has been turned into a cylinder, about 1/16" proud of the mandrel's bushing. In this example, I've left the blank extra long...about 4". Note that the hole inside the blank must be 2 7/8" deep to allow space for the roller ball's innards.

Using a sharp skew or parting tool, mark a ring on the blank that is at least 3" to the right of the headstock end of the blank's end. This mark indicates where the end of the finished pen will be and will help calibrate the shape and design of your finished blank.

I like beads...using a thin parting tool, make the first of two cuts, on the left side of the headstock end of the turning.

Here you can see the first cut that has been made at about a 45 degree angle.

Now using the point of a skew or thin parting tool, make the bead's second (right-side) cut.

Now I'll be using a 1/2" round nosed scraper to make some decorative cove cuts in the blank.

Here I'm using a skew to make decorative cuts in the lower barrel's end.

The thin parting tool is used to make a final end cut, separating the lower barrel form waste wood.

And here, the thin parting tool is used to clean up the end-cut.

While the piece is still on the lathe, sand as you normally would. I'm sanding with 180, 320 and 400 grit papers.

After sanding, apply a coat of Sanding Sealer with a brush or paper towel. Be sure to wipe off the excess sealer before it dries to avoid a clumpy looking surface.

Remove the mandrel from the chuck.

I'm using the mandrel's exposed shaft as a handle, buffing the piece with Tripoli and White Diamond compounds, using the Beall system.

Next, apply a coat of Renaissance Wax, wait about 30 seconds and buff the piece out on a third clean buffing wheel.

Then wait about 15 minutes, apply a second coat of Renaissance Wax and repeat the final buffing process. By the way, there is just enough time between these two Renaissance Wax applications to turn another pen if you have a second mandrel.

This photo shows all of the hardware included with a Baron pen kit. The four parts shown at the bottom of this photo will not be used and may be discarded or saved as spares.

Put a drop or two of medium thick CA down the center of the finished lower barrel, then drop in the tension spring. Let the CA dry thoroughly before going further in the assembly process. Finally, assemble the pen as you normally would.

And here is the finished Rollerball Baron in Tulipwood.

The adjustable closed-end mandrel is available exclusively through Arizona Silhouette

Have a question or comment? Send Ed an email.

Please read the Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges before ordering.